In response to several requests, this is how I’ve fitted Andersen Super Mini (‘Special’) bailer to a Stellar SEI (excel)...There are some short cuts I've found along the way (*SC = short cuts).
Like any operation there are several ways of performing it - this is just one...
Part 1.
Operation: ‘Venturi-ectomy – Bailer-plasty’ Nov 13’
NB: This will probably affect my warranty on my ski – but I’d rather have better drainage.
Disclosure: I’m a ‘C’ grade paddler (and not a good one at that!), I have no formal qualifications in boat building – But, I do have close access to one for advice & help...and nearly 40 years experience mucking around with boats.
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First of all – Make a mould – This will pay dividends in time/finish. The mould is just two blocks of timber which is glued & screwed together then covered in flowcoat/gelcoat. When finished - Use wax & release agent...Apply the finish gelcoat to the mould – Then apply three layers of 200grm Carbon Fibre & a little bit of chop strand mat – I use West 105 epoxy resin.
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Remove the bottom rail (this is screwed and glued in - *SC: do not remove - use a dremel tool to cut & shape) Remove hood & bullet off the bottom – I used a chisel – (*SC: grind it off)
Using the mould/tray you made as your template mark out where it sits and cut out – inside & out.
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Fit the bailer to newly created tray – countersunk bolts are fitted from the underside-out – these need to be notched and glassed in (so they do not spin).
You must bond the inside(deck) to hull be sure to fill all the exposed nomex cells – this needs to air/water tight – I use mix of resin, micro balloons/q cells with glass strands mixed in. Use the same process to bond/glass the tray too.
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Fill fair and gelcoat the interior / Spray gelcoat to the exterior
Like any operation there are several ways of performing it - this is just one...
Part 1.
Operation: ‘Venturi-ectomy – Bailer-plasty’ Nov 13’
NB: This will probably affect my warranty on my ski – but I’d rather have better drainage.
Disclosure: I’m a ‘C’ grade paddler (and not a good one at that!), I have no formal qualifications in boat building – But, I do have close access to one for advice & help...and nearly 40 years experience mucking around with boats.
First of all – Make a mould – This will pay dividends in time/finish. The mould is just two blocks of timber which is glued & screwed together then covered in flowcoat/gelcoat. When finished - Use wax & release agent...Apply the finish gelcoat to the mould – Then apply three layers of 200grm Carbon Fibre & a little bit of chop strand mat – I use West 105 epoxy resin.
Remove the bottom rail (this is screwed and glued in - *SC: do not remove - use a dremel tool to cut & shape) Remove hood & bullet off the bottom – I used a chisel – (*SC: grind it off)
Using the mould/tray you made as your template mark out where it sits and cut out – inside & out.
Fit the bailer to newly created tray – countersunk bolts are fitted from the underside-out – these need to be notched and glassed in (so they do not spin).
You must bond the inside(deck) to hull be sure to fill all the exposed nomex cells – this needs to air/water tight – I use mix of resin, micro balloons/q cells with glass strands mixed in. Use the same process to bond/glass the tray too.
Fill fair and gelcoat the interior / Spray gelcoat to the exterior